An Insider’s Guide to Vegetarian Restaurants in Saigon

I’m just going to come right out and say it – being a vegetarian in Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon) rocks. Sometimes traveling as a vegetarian in Southeast Asia can be brutal, but that’s not in the case in Saigon. Thanks to Vietnam’s sizeable Buddhist population, there are tons of vegetarian restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City — and other major cities in Vietnam — as well as plenty of vegan and vegetarian-friendly restaurants.

I’ve done a lot of eating since moving to this city. It’s one of the things that I do best. So if you’re a vegetarian (or vegan) and you’re planning a trip to Vietnam here’s my insider’s guide to some of the best vegetarian restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Just a note, most of these restaurants are pure vegetarian but I’ve also included some that have great vegetarian and vegan options on the menu. Also, I’m including everything from Vietnamese food to international options because this city has a wide range of restaurants – and to be frank, as an expat I like to mix things up. And finally, I’ve added a few tips and phrases that will help you navigate the city if you’re a non-meat eater.

Most people who visit Ho Chi Minh City base themselves in the downtown area, which is in District 1. This is where I live so I’ve come to know the vegetarian scene pretty well. The majority of restaurants I’m recommending are in District 1 (with a few scattered a couple of kilometers away in District 2).

The Best Vegetarian Restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City

By the way, if you’re a vegetarian traveling around Vietnam, here are some of my other vegetarian city guides:

• Vegetarian Guide To Nha Trang, Vietnam: Everything You Need To Know
• My Favorite Vegetarian Restaurants In Da Nang, Vietnam
• A Guide to Finding the Best Vegetarian Restaurants in Hoi An

Vegetarian Banh Mi

There is no shortage of vegetarian banh mi (aka banh mi chay) in Ho Chi Minh City. A lot of places that serve Vietnam’s famous baguette sandwiches will have a chay (chay means vegetarian in Vietnamese) version. These are usually stuffed with mushrooms, tofu, mock meat or some sort of variation thereof, as well as the standard cucumbers, pickled veggies, cilantro, hot peppers, and mayo. Vegetarians should note that the banh mi opla (basically banh mi with a fried egg) usually comes with pate, so make sure to ask for it without pate…I learned that the hard way.

Anyway, here are a couple of my go-to places:

Banh Mi Ba Lac: Right off of the Nguyen Hue Walking Street.

Great Banh Mi & Cafe: A chain with tons of locations around the city.

Chi Cu

I was a bit intimidated by this restaurant at first. I think I walked past it 10 times before I finally mustered the courage to walk in. It’s a super hole-in-the-wall place and when I first started eating there, there was no English menu. (FYI, they now have a menu in English, which makes ordering way easier if you’re not familiar with Vietnamese dishes.) The menu is small, so I started by just pointing at dishes not knowing what would come. Even though I had no idea what I was ordering everything was super fresh and delicious. This is hands down my favorite vegetarian restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City. Everything costs 25,000 dong (US$1). Also, order the tra da (iced tea) for 2,000 dong or nuoc mia (cane juice) for 6,000. Both are staples in Saigon and really help to cool you off during the sweltering days.

Chay Nha Toi

Literally directly across the street from Chi Cu, Nha Toi is the new kid on the block. This place opened a few months ago and so far everything I’ve sampled is delicious. The servers are super helpful and will basically point out all their specialties, which include a range of hot pots and BBQ’d mock meats. They also have all the staples from noodle soups to amazing salads to veggie dishes. Their menu is extensive and I still have a lot of eating to do there.

Quan Chay Giac Tha

This place is right down the street from Chi Cu and Nha Toi. It’s a super casual spot that specializes in hu tieu, which comes in a few different forms, including a soup version and multiple dry versions. Although it’s actually a pork-based dish, this is a pure vegetarian restaurant that specializes in hu tieu. So far I’ve tried two types, both of which remind me a lot of Chinese and Cambodian food — which makes sense because the origins of the dish can be traced back to those countries. It’s now ultra-popular in southern Vietnam, and it’s delicious. This is another one of my go-to places along with Chi Cu. Dishes range from 30,000-40,000 dong ($1.50-2).

3 La Vegetarian

3 La was packed when I visited and for good reason. It’s definitely a bit more on the trendy side and is popular among tourists, expats, and locals. Expect to pay a few dollars per dish. They offer a range of vegetarian Vietnamese foods, but what really intrigued me about this place is that they have a bunch of artichoke dishes (fresh from Dalat in the Central Highlands), though you have to order them one day in advance. I’m a huge artichoke fan so I’m dying to try them!

Saigon Vegan

Saigon Vegan has a fairly large menu full of vegan versions of Vietnamese dishes. There are a range of noodle soups, hot pots, and seasonal salads. There are also all sorts of braised veggies, tofu, mock meats cooked in clay pots and so much more. Everything is delicious and the servers are very friendly. Pictured above is my go-to, Mie Tiem Noodle Soup (55,000 dong).

Chan Nhu II

This is a popular spot among foreigners and locals alike and it always seems to have a steady stream of traffic, which is always a good sign. This place serves up all the staples on their menu but if you’re looking for something to take away, you can order from their sizeable buffet, which is basically a mock meat lover’s dream come true.

Nha Hang Chay Healthy Farm

Speaking of mock meat…this is probably one of the more unique vegetarian restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City. You basically pick and choose your veggies and (mock) meats from the display at the front of the restaurant. The staff will then cook them up with either noodles or rice and present you with some fabulous concoction. Honestly, this actually isn’t my favorite vegetarian restaurant in town. The real reason I go here is because there is a full freezer section in the back of the restaurant that sells all manner of mock meat. I basically visit this place whenever I feel like stocking up.

Hum Vegetarian Café & Restaurant

Hum is probably the most well-known vegetarian restaurant in the city, which is why I don’t really need to include it in this list. It’s the place that everyone recommends to vegetarians, probably because it’s listed in the Lonely Planet. It is really good but there are so many other places that I’d recommend over Hum. Hum actually has two branches in Saigon and both are a bit more on the upscale side. The food is delicious but I suppose I’m more of a street food/hole-in-the-wall girl. If you’re looking for a nicer night out, a place to bring colleagues to, or somewhere to have a romantic dinner this is a great option for vegetarians and vegans. Everything I sampled there was really good.

Vegetarian-Friendly Restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City

Bookworm’s Coffee

From the looks of it, you would think this is just a backpacker café but it’s actually a vegetarian and vegan paradise. It’s not pure veg but they have tons of options for those who aren’t meat inclined. (The owner is actually vegan, hence all the veg dishes.) While they do have Vietnamese options, it’s the British comfort foods that drew me here. Think vegan bangers and mash and mock meat pies. I really appreciate that this place has such a wide variety of food that you can never find in veg-friendly forms. It’s located right off of Bui Vien Walking Street (aka the “backpacker street”).

Nonla Guys

This Mexican-Korean fusion joint is a guilty pleasure of mine. Because I’m from San Diego I have a thing for trying every Mexican food-ish place I come across in Southeast Asia. So while I was super skeptical, I had to try it. I always order the Vegetarian Quesadilla (it has tofu, beans, cheese, and a creamy sauce). It is bomb. It’s definitely not traditional Mexican food, but it’s damn tasty. They have tofu burritos, salad bowls and more. This place is located just off of Bui Vien Walking Street. You can also request to have diced chilies added to your meal. As a spicy food lover I can attest that they’re not fucking around when it comes to spice, something I appreciate.

Tippy’s

Speaking of Mexican food, this one’s definitely my favorite in town. I probably eat here once a week (but probably twice…). There a handful of vegetarian items on the menu: from burritos to enchiladas to chilaquiles. No, it’s not exactly like my beloved Southern California Mexican food, but it’s as close as I’ve found in Asia. And they actually have real salsa! My go-to is the bean, cheese, and potato burrito.

Al Sham

This Syrian-Lebanese restaurant is a gem. It’s small and unpretentious but they serve up the best Middle Eastern food in town and there are plenty of vegetarian options on the menu. I’ve heard they’ll even make items vegan if you notify them ahead of time. They have it all from falafel wraps (40,000 dong) to hummus to (80,000 dong) to traditional flatbreads (70,000). Plus, it’s actually really affordable considering the level of quality and love that’s put into their food. I walk past this place daily and the Syrian owner is always cooking away. The fact that the owner actually does the cooking, oversees the restaurant, and eats there day in and day out is always a good sign. He’s super friendly too. I love the shakshuka (80,000 dong) and moutabal (80,000 dong).

Bali House (formerly Dapur Bali)

Bali House just opened a brick and mortar location in District 2. What I love about Bali House is that the Indonesian owner is incredibly friendly and willing to accommodate vegetarians. The menu features a long list of vegetarian options, including some of my favorite Indonesian dishes such as bakwan (corn fritters), sayur asem (veggie tamarind soup) and tahu isi (stuffed tofu). Just ask whether or not dishes are pure veg. For example, I believe the sayur asem is usually cooked with shrimp paste, but she’ll make it without it. The food is delicious, authentic, and this place is definitely one of my new favorites in town.

Mon Hue CLOSED

(UPDATE: This chain closed in 2019): Mon Hue is a popular chain and there are branches all over Vietnam. To be clear, this is not my favorite place in town but it’ll do the trick if you’re in a pinch. I didn’t realize it until recently, but Mon Hue has a full vegetarian page featuring all sorts of specialties from the Hue region, including the ultra-famous bun bo hue (beef noodle soup). Because it’s a chain dishes are more like $2-4 but the quality is decent and it’s a good option if you’re with a group of vegetarians and non-vegetarians.

Or…

Take a Vegan Food Tour

If you are pressed for time and want to experience all the veg goodness Ho Chi Minh City has to offer, you’re in luck because there are actually vegan food tours in this city!!  In my opinion, food tours are always a great way to get an introduction to the local cuisine. And they are especially helpful for us non-meat eaters!

A guide to finding vegetarian Vietnamese food in Ho Chi Minh City

Chay = Vegetarian

The word chay in Vietnamese means vegetarian. This is literally the #1 thing you need to know if you’re a vegetarian in Vietnam. If you see the word chay on a restaurant sign, this means the entire menu will be fully vegetarian (and mostly vegan).

If any dish uses the word chay (pho chay = vegetarian pho) you can rest assured that the dish is vegetarian, including the broth. I’m a pretty strict vegetarian, which means I don’t eat things like animal-based broths or fish sauce. So chay restaurants fit with my personal requirements, which puts me at ease. While most items in chay restaurants are vegan, strict vegans will need to double check with the waiter, just in case.

Download the Happy Cow App

This app is the love of my vegetarian life. Seriously, I use this app when I visit any new city. It’ll list every vegan, vegetarian and veg-friendly restaurant and store near you and the reviews are super helpful. I don’t know how I ever lived without this app while traveling. It works in most cities but is super helpful here in HCMC because it’ll lead you to hard-to-find restaurants.

Mock Meat

Mock meat is common in Vietnam. I absolutely LOVE mock meat – trust me it features prominently in this blog – but I understand that many vegetarians and vegans detest it. While fake meat is popular, vegetarian restaurants have tons of other options. So don’t stress if fake meat freaks you out. And if you love mock meat, you’ll be in heaven!

Useful words and phrases for vegetarians in Vietnam:

An chay – I eat vegetarian
Bahn – bread
Bo – butter
Bò – beef
Cá – fish
Chay – vegetarian
Com – rice
Gà – chicken
Mam tom – shrimp paste
Nuoc mam – fish sauce
Phô mai – cheese
Rau – vegetables
Sua – milk
Thịt heo – pork
Trung – eggs

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What do you think are the best vegetarian restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City?