Why Celebrating Tet in Saigon Is Kind of Amazing
Most travelers avoid visiting Vietnam during Tet (aka Vietnamese Lunar New Year). But not me. Somehow I’ve managed to spend the past two Tet holidays in Vietnam. Honestly, I didn’t actually intend for this to happen. But these were happy accidents, because they’ve been two of my favorite Vietnam experiences thus far! And celebrating Tet in Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon) this year was a real treat!
Tet is by far the biggest holiday in Vietnam. Let’s just say the Vietnamese take Lunar New Year very seriously. Tet is all about tradition, food and family. On the days leading up to Lunar New Year, virtually the entire country migrates outside of major cities like Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon) and Hanoi to more rural areas to visit family (both alive and deceased) in their ancestral towns.
The whole country gets a one-week holiday, which aligns with the lunar calendar. This year the New Year fell on February 16. Since I’m now living in Vietnam I was lucky enough to have the experience of celebrating Tet in Saigon!
In the days leading up to Lunar New Year, the energy in the city is palpable. I’ve now been living in Saigon for nearly two months and I’ve become used to the rushed, no-nonsense attitude of the city, which is why I was kind of taken aback by Tet.
One day, everything was business as usual… and then with the snap of a finger the mood and pace of the entire city shifted.
About a week before Tet, I was wandering around Saigon and I noticed that the street corners, shops and parks were filled (and I mean filled) with yellow flowers. Literally the sweet smell of yellow daisies and apricot blossoms wafted through the alleyways and parks of Saigon.
Golden flowers, kumquat trees, red envelopes (li xi) all play a huge role in Tet traditions and festivities and they were being sold on quite literally every street corner in the city. Signs reading “Chuc Mung Nam Moi” (“Happy New Year” in Vietnamese) became ubiquitous and the red, lone-starred Vietnamese flag could suddenly be found hanging from almost every shop and home.
The holiday was still a week away, yet I could already feel the excitement.
During the days leading up to the Lunar New Year, I would pause on street corners and watch as motorbikes strapped with enormous kumquat trees, overstuffed bags of groceries and pots upon pots of yellow flowers somehow managed to maneuver through the clogged streets of Saigon. Families flocked to the city’s parks and markets to purchase flowers, plants and other gifts for the holiday. And I, people watcher that I am, just couldn’t help but take it all in with complete glee.
And then the real festivities began… celebrating Tet in Ho Chi Minh City
The eve of Lunar New Year is when the holiday reaches its peak. Celebrating Tet in Saigon is truly something special. I wandered around, watching families gather in parks and observing groups of young men drink copious amounts of beer on street corners. I also visited the famous flower street on Nguyen Hue (one of Saigon’s main walking streets) and took in the touristy but festive spectacle.
As the clock approached midnight, I migrated toward the river along with thousands of other people to watch the grand finale of the evening – the fireworks show. I was so packed in with the other onlookers that I had to balance myself on one foot while leaning on an electrical box for like an hour. But it was worth it. The fireworks show was spectacular and hearing the gasps from the crowd each time a colorful blast appeared over the Saigon River was something I’ll never forget.
In big cities like Saigon, the days after Tet feel a little bit eerie. Per tradition, most families spend the days following the New Year inside, celebrating by feasting and spending quality time with family. This means that the streets are virtually empty and quiet. The exact opposite of the chaos and noise that characterizes everyday life Saigon.
During the weeklong holiday, most shops, restaurants and even food delivery services close. The city seems almost apocalypticly empty and while some might complain about the lack of things to do and restaurants to eat at, I love getting to see the city in such a rare state.
During the days following the New Year, I was able to saunter across Saigon’s roads without fear of being hit by a motorbike, snap photographs of the empty alleyways adorned with their yellow flowers and flowing red flags, and relax in my apartment without fear of construction noise.
I relish this side of Saigon, because I know I won’t see it like this for another year. And that’s why celebrating Tet in Saigon is kind of amazing!
Have you ever traveled to another country during a major holiday? What was your experience like?
I really love your photography Justine!
I tend to avoid travelling to developing countries during major holidays, as prices really rocket, everyone is extremely busy with the business and excitement of it all, and it becomes extremely difficult to find really nice places to stay!
Having said that, if I accidentally find myself already there, then it’s marvellous to see. For example, I found myself in some sort of Chinese festival whilst in Hoi An which I watched from the terrace of our restaurant! I’ve also found myself slap bang in the middle of Holy Week in Seville (Spain). Chairs were placed in the street, people were dressed up and rushing around, security was tighter, and music and parades were everywhere. It was great!
We’ve also found ourselves in a street festival in Italy and was offered food and drink absolutely free of charge, but you could make a donation, which we did. There was also a live classical concert that took place in the Town Square. We hadn’t known about it previously, but we joined the locals, and sat on the floor as the concert took place!
Brilliant Stuff!
Thanks Victoria! Yeah, generally I’d say avoiding traveling anywhere in Asia during Lunar New Year is a bad idea. But have loved having the chance to spend Tet here. It’s really a special experience.
Yes, I love those travel times when you just stumble upon major cultural festivities. Holy Week sounds like it was super memorable!!
It’s those accidental encounters that make travel so special 🙂