Why I Chose Bai Tu Long Bay Over Ha Long Bay

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Post updated: May 6, 2025

I have fond memories of my Ha Long Bay cruise. I visited what is now one of Vietnam’s most famous destinations over 10 years ago when my now husband and I were baby backpackers. Like every other budget traveler, we booked a super cheap Ha Long Bay cruise on a rickety junk boat and spent three blissful days sailing past towering limestone karsts, jumping off the roof deck into the turquoise water, and drinking Saigon Special beers every night with our newfound friends.

Ha Long Bay, as I remember it, was magical.

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So, when I was mapping out my 2-week itinerary for my mom and sister’s big Vietnam trip, I thought back to that trip and just knew that a Ha Long Bay cruise was a must-do for my family.

But, as I quickly found out, a lot has changed in the past decade.

Tourism in Vietnam has boomed in recent years, which means Ha Long Bay is a lot more crowded and polluted compared to when I first visited. When I started reading reviews for Ha Long Bay cruises, I got really dejected.

Travelers were talking about vast amounts of garbage floating in the water, hundreds of boats sailing side by side through the clogged bay, and nightmarish tour experiences. It turns out that over-tourism is a serious issue in Ha Long Bay.

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An example of one of the more touristy parts of the tour.
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Love this dog!

After reading bad review after bad review of Ha Long Bay, even my mom started to question my thinking, so I started to research alternatives. And that’s when I found out about the Bai Tu Long Bay cruise.

Bai Tu Long Bay vs Halong Bay

Bai Tu Long Bay is kind of like the new Ha Long Bay. Located to the northeast of Ha Long Bay, it’s a bit further afield but well worth the extra effort to reach. Bai Tu Long Bay is a part of the same UNESCO World Heritage Site as Ha Long Bay. The area consists of roughly 2,000 limestone formations that jut out of the ocean creating an otherworldly landscape. I mean, there’s a reason tourists flock to Ha Long Bay – it’s beautiful.

Bai Tu Long Bay was previously closed to all tour companies, which is why it’s still considered to be a more “off-the-beaten-path” and “pristine” version of Ha Long Bay. However, the government allowed a handful of tour companies to start operating in the area a few years ago. During my visit, I spotted no more than 10 other small cruise ships at any given time.

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Bai Tu Long Bay at its most crowded.

As someone who has visited both destinations, I can say that Bai Tu Long Bay is equally as stunning as its more famous neighbor but it is far less crowded and much more peaceful and pristine.

But when it comes to choosing Bai Tu Long Bay vs Halong Bay there is a catch.

A Bai Tu Long Bay cruise is generally more expensive than those ubiquitous, budget-friendly junk boats that populate Ha Long Bay. I think we paid $45 for our three-day tour back in the day. This time around, my sister and I shared a room for a grand total of $440. Just a tad bit more expensive!

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That being said, this was a special occasion and I wanted our experience to be a memorable one for my family. Plus, this tour was way more luxurious than my Ha Long Bay cruise. After a ton of research, we decided to do a 3-day/2-night Bai Tu Long Bay cruise with Halong Paloma Cruises. (Note: This post is not sponsored and I do genuinely recommend this tour.)

Once we got onto the ship we all felt a little less guilty about shelling out so much money for the cruise. The ship was large enough to be comfortable but small enough for us to make friends with almost all of the 37 other passengers. The beds were super comfortable, the rooms and bathrooms were surprisingly spacious and luxurious, and the rooftop deck was the perfect place to lounge about and marvel at the beauty of Bai Tu Long Bay.

We spend our days eating lavish Vietnamese meals, hiking to a hidden beach and a stunning cave, doing sunrise yoga on the deck, kayaking around the limestone karsts right before sunset, and making memories that are sure to last a lifetime.

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My mom exploring the caves!
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Because both my mom and I had never kayaked before, we were both a bit nervous about this part of the Bai Tu Long Bay cruse. And while it took a bit of adjusting but my mom and I quickly fell into a groove of our tandem kayak. And guess what? We love kayaking!

No, we weren’t as fast as everyone else. But we did it. It was a really magical experience just cruising around the emerald bay with my mom and watching the sun sink into the ocean and turn the limestone karsts pink. It’s honestly one of my all-time favorite travel moments.

I loved my Bai Tu Long Bay cruise experience. My sister and I woke up to watch the sunrise over the misty bay and its countless limestone formations, my mom and I conquered our fear of kayaking, and we all ate our weight in Vietnamese food at every meal. (Man, they really do feed you on those tours!)

The three of us definitely had the most fun out of everyone on that ship. We drank, we laughed, we swam, we played cards, we gabbed. It was just so nice.

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A misty sunrise in Bai Tu Long Bay.

By the end of the trip, we all agreed that opting to visit Bai Tu Long Bay vs Ha Long Bay was hands down the right choice for us.

Honestly, I feel so lucky that I was able to experience Ha Long Bay before the major tourism boom. And I feel the same about my visit to Bai Tu Long Bay. I think we all got to experience something pretty magical. I’m guessing that in 10+ years, Bai Tu Long Bay will be a much different place.

Why I chose Paloma’s Bai Tu Long Bay cruise

When it came to choosing a Bai Tu Long Bay cruise, I did a lot of research and discussed different options at length with my family. Cruises seem to range from $100-$500 and you can choose from a 1-night or 2-night tour. If you have the time I highly recommend the 2-night tour. Everyone I met who did the 1-night cruise regretted their decision.

My sister and I really wanted a tour that included kayaking, whereas my mom was ambivalent about kayaking. One thing that’s nice about this cruise is that you don’t have to kayak but you can if you want to. So it’s a good choice for those traveling with kids and those who aren’t physically able to kayak. That being said, everyone who had small children took the kayaks out and had a blast!

We booked the most basic room on this boat, which ran us about $420 per room for a 3-day/2-night cruise. We did go during the high season and I booked directly through the website. The price includes everything from the transfer to and from Hanoi to kayaking sessions on both days to all the very lavish meals.

The only thing you need to pay for is your own drinks and booze. We snuck some onboard because we like to keep it classy!

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Cruising Through Vietnam’s Magical Bai Tu Long Bay - Travel Lush

Are you considering a Bai Tu Long Bay cruise? Feel free to ask questions in the comments below!