A Beginner’s Guide to Renting a Scooter in Southeast Asia
Renting a scooter in Southeast Asia is never something I thought I would do. In fact, I never thought I would ever muster the courage to ride a scooter. The thought of it freaked me out. I’m not sure if I was more nervous about crashing and burning or making a fool out of myself by driving off the side of the road. Whatever it was, I never really saw myself as a motorbike kind of girl.
And then Hawaii happened.
My friend happens to be an accomplished rider and he somehow convinced me that I would be perfectly fine driving an automatic scooter around Oahu. I was petrified at the thought. And honestly, I was a ball of nerves the entire day as I wobbled around the island.
But seriously, it made for one of the most memorable travel days ever.
Since that day in Hawaii I have become kind of a motorbike junkie. I am by no means 100 percent comfortable on a scooter, but I’m getting better. At this point I have explored quite a few cities and islands in Southeast Asia on two wheels. I’ve found deserted beaches in Malaysia, coasted through the Chocolate Hills in the Philippines and gone temple hopping in local villages in Indonesia.
Learning to ride a motorbike has completely transformed the way I travel. But I do realize that there is much debate about whether or not renting a scooter in Southeast Asia is a good idea. Some travelers (like me) swear by it while many think that renting a motorbike is a bad idea.
After witnessing my boyfriend crash his scooter in Bali last month I realized just how dangerous motorbikes can be. The accident didn’t scare me off of them; thankfully everything was okay and he was able to hop right back on his bike. But it did get me thinking about how important it is to exercise caution when cruising around foreign cities on a scooter.
It also inspired me to put together a guide for anyone out there who is contemplating renting a scooter in Southeast Asia. I’ve included tips on how to rent, the basics of driving and, most importantly, how to stay safe.
Renting a Scooter in Southeast Asia:
Types of motorbikes:
In most tourist spots in Southeast Asia, you have your choice of three types of motorbikes: automatic, semi-automatic (with gears) and manual (with gears and clutch). I am by no means hardcore and I have only ever ridden an automatic, which I highly recommend for beginners. You can work your way up to more advanced motorbikes once you get the hang of the automatic. I hear semi-automatics are fairly easy to use and offer much more control than automatic scooters. It’s always best to specify which type of bike you want when renting.
International driver’s license:
Some Southeast Asian countries might require them but I have only ever been asked once, in the Cameron Highlands, Malaysia. If you’re planning to rent a motorbike in Southeast Asia, I just wouldn’t worry about it. In my opinion, it’s not worth the hassle.
The cost:
Obviously the cost is going to depend on the country and city you’re traveling in. I’ve paid anywhere from $4 a day in Bali to $8 in the Philippines to $5 in Thailand. As a rule of thumb, you should never have to pay more than $5-10 when renting a scooter in Southeast Asia.
Of course, there are a few exceptions. For example tourist hot spots like Boracay, the Philippines, and the Cameron Highlands, Malaysia, charge around $20 a day! You’ll usually get them for 12-24 hours and some places may ask for a deposit. If you rent the bike for a few days or a month you will get absurdly good deals.
What to wear:
I feel lucky that I was taught to ride a scooter by an expert, who instructed me to always wear a helmet, long pants, close toed shoes and sunglasses.
- Helmet: No, they don’t look cool. And, yes, sometimes they smell. But seriously don’t be a fool, just wear the helmet! Unfortunately helmets aren’t always available in Southeast Asia, but I think Bali has been the only place where I couldn’t find one. Usually, if you insist or ask around, you’ll be able to find a vendor who will rent you a motorbike with a helmet. Jut so you know, helmets don’t typically cost extra.
- Long pants: I realize that in Southeast Asia it’s hot, and the idea of wearing long pants seems ridiculous. I can’t say I always abide by this rule (see above) but I do most of the time, especially during long rides. When my boyfriend wiped out in Bali, he was luckily wearing long pants. Otherwise his legs would have been really cut up, instead of just badly bruised. They can also help prevent burns in case you accidentally brush your leg against the boiling-hot tailpipe, something that happens all too often if you’re not careful.
- Close toed shoes: This is another one that seems excessive. I mean, in Southeast Asia you’re probably donning flip flops every day. I wear flip flops all the time, but when I’m motorbiking I pretty much always have on a pair of Converse. I can’t tell you how many times this has saved me from cutting up my feet, which happens to a lot of people. When you get the speed wobbles or get off balance, your feet are the first things that hit the ground. Also, you will drag your feet on the ground when you stop and start and getting your sandals snagged on the ground isn’t fun.
- Sunglasses: Be sure to bring a pair with you so bugs and dust don’t get into your eyes while your driving. You’ll thank me later!
What to check for before you rent:
There’s always going to be something wrong with your bike. I mean we are talking about motorbiking in Southeast Asia here. So doing a quick check is a good idea.
- Brakes: I don’t think I’ve ever rented a bike that had fully functional braeks, but in one instance the rear break was so bad it barely worked. The whole day I was kind of bummed I had rented that particular bike, especially when I was going downhill.
- Gas gauge: These don’t work 50 percent of the time. It’s fine, but it’s just good to know if you’ll have to check the gas level manually.
- Headlights: Make sure the headlight works. Getting caught without lights at night can be dangerous and difficult. This happened to me in the Philippines and I was terrified because I couldn’t see a thing and other vehicles couldn’t see me. It wasn’t fun.
Getting your bearings:
If you’ve never ridden a motorbike before, don’t just gas it into a busy street. The first time I rented a bike a guy in the store, who had clearly never ridden a bike before, hopped on his scooter, gassed it way too hard, flipped his bike into the air and got seriously burned by the tailpipe. It was horrifying.
After seeing that, I literally walked my scooter to a nearby parking lot to get the hang of turning and accelerating…both of which are really challenging for beginners. Even at this point I only rent scooters in rural towns where there are decent roads and little traffic. I never rent motorbikes in big cities because I know I’d be a hazard to myself and others.
Get oriented with your bike:
The blinker, horn and lights are on the left. The starter button and throttle are on the right. Start the bike by holding down either one of the brakes and pressing the starter button until the engine starts. Give it gas by turning the right handle bar toward you. If you’ve never ridden a bike before and you’re accelerating for the first time give it the slightest twist backwards, we’re talking microscopic here. These things have power…don’t be one of those people who gasses it and ends up crashing. Please!
Troubleshooting why your bike won’t start:
I had to mention this because I am still that person who starts panicking when my scooter won’t start, and I have visions of being stranded in the middle of nowhere on some remote Balinese island (yes, this happened). Literally it’s almost always because my kickstand is still down or I’m not holding down the break hard enough.
Getting petrol:
The first time I needed to fill up my scooter in Pai, Thailand, I was bewildered. Where the hell is the gas tank? So you don’t look like a fool (like me), the gas tank is located under the seat and you’ll need the key to unlock the seat.
In Southeast Asia there aren’t always gas stations, so just keep your eyes peeled for bottles of Absolut or soda bottles on the side of the road.
Learn to use your horn:
Using your horn is key when you’re motorbiking in Southeast Asia. It’s commonly used to alert oncoming traffic when you’re going around sharp turns or passing. It also comes in handy for getting dogs, chickens and monkeys out of the road.
Don’t stop when you’re going uphill:
I’ve had so many close calls with this. I find myself going up a steep incline, when I suddenly become really nervous and stop because I realize the hill is too steep for me. Bad idea.
Scooters are heavy. Really heavy when you’re trying to keep them from rolling down a steep hill. Once you stop, it’s really challenging to support its weight while trying to get going uphill again. Once you’ve started up a steep hill just go with it. Don’t panic, just gas it like hell and enjoy the ride.
Bike repairs:
Motorbikes are really popular in Southeast Asia and finding a place to fix your bike is a cinch. I’ve always been worried about what would happen if I ever crashed my bike and needed to get it fixed. I’ve always figured that I’d get completely ripped off.
After experiencing my boyfriend’s motorbike accident in Bali, which left him with a broken mirror and scuffed paint on one side of the bike, we had no clue what to pay. The owner asked us for about $35, which we gladly handed over given that the bike had been brand new when we’d rented it. We later found out that the repairs would have only cost us $5 had we just gone to a local mechanic. We were totally ripped off. Now we know…
Riding a motorbike in Southeast Asia can be great fun. And in my opinion it gives you the freedom to go at your own pace and steer you to things you might not otherwise experience. I’m a firm believer that renting a scooter is a wonderful and unforgettable way to explore Southeast Asia. Just always be sure to be safe!
Are you a fan of renting motorbikes in foreign countries? Do you have any other tips?
Hi Justine!
Excellent post! Thank you for the useful information. I’m a motorbike-guy myself. Although I recently had to sell my own motorbike (saving for traveling). When I rented a motorbike in SOA I was impressed by the petrol stations! It was so different! But lovely… haha! 🙂
Thanks! The petrol “stations” are so funny, but also really convenient. It’s almost impossible to run out of gas because it seems like everyone in Southeast Asia sells liters of petrol at their store. So where are you going to be traveling next?
Fun article!! You will have to teach me in person some day!
Ha, doesn’t John still have his little scooter? Take a spin on that! That thing is super fun 🙂
This is a great post. I unfortunately never got the courage to ride one. I was in a crash while on the back of one early on in China and it sort of freaked me out. By the time I was less terrified to drive one I was just in bad places to learn. (Saigon). Someday though. Also I have a massive scar from burning my leg on the tailpipe in Vietnam when my friend was driving.
I wouldn’t have the courage to ride one either if I were you. That’s awful that you’ve had such bad experiences. I’ve never burned myself, but I always worry about it when I’m riding on the back of people’s motorbikes here in Jakarta. It seems really easy to do! Ha, yeah I wouldn’t dare to ride one in Saigon either. Honestly, I only ride in pretty rural places. I really don’t like riding when there are a lot of people on the road; it makes me really nervous. If you ever do decide to rent a scooter do it in the countryside!
Ahh, this article highlighted so many of the reasons I prefer driving a semi-automatic! The hill problem, just as one example! Not that it’s ever a good idea to stop going uphill, but it’s not such a problem with semi-autos because they are so much damn lighter than automatics. They’re cheaper to rent usually, too! I never wore really safe attire when driving in Thailand, except for my full face helmet. I was constantly driving around in flip flops (or heels!) and shorts or even dresses. And we loved to ride threesies when we needed to give that extra friend a lift. We took a lot of dumb chances, and most people I know (myself included) were in at least one accident, but luckily none of them that serious. I would probably be more cautious the next time I ride one, no matter where I am in the world! Great list of tips 🙂
I honestly don’t know why I haven’t tried a semi-automatic. But clearly I need to. I have noticed that they are always cheaper than automatics, but I didn’t know that they were so much lighter! Automatics are so heavy!
Ha, no one wears safe attire in Southeast Asia. Even I don’t always abide by my own rules all the time. I usually do where shoes though…unless I’m just going around town. Yeah, accidents are so common. I have had so many close calls, but somehow I haven’t actually crashed yet. Fingers crossed it stays that way!
Those are great tips as I’m heading to Bali in 3 weeks. Definitely going to rent a scooter.
Thanks! Have you ridden a scooter before? Bali can be kind of a crazy place to ride. I wouldn’t dare to ride one in Kuta…though I do tend to over think these things. I did ride one in and around Ubud and then on Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida. All of those places were really fun. Yay, I can’t believe you’re almost going to be in Indonesia! I’m heading to Bali in a few hours 🙂
Very nice post!
We are big fans of motorbikes but we usually buy them when we travel (sadly being in China means we are not riding one at the moment) and just travel on them. My other half loves manual but that’s because he’s good with those, I’d go for automatic too!
As you say: never forget the helmet! We saw so many people riding only wearing a swimsuit while in SE Asia… and when they end up in an accident it’s not pretty!
I’ve always wanted to travel around a country on a motorbike but I’ve just never done it. The helmet is so important. I know a lot of tourists in SE Asia don’t want to look dumb, but it’s scary to think of all the serious injuries that can happen. I’ve seen so many travelers with bandages all over their bodies too! Sadly accidents are way too common 🙁
Awesome guide! I also just filmed a bit of verbal diarrhea about renting and riding scooters in SE Asia. I didn’t realise you had already covered it!
Feel free to take a look at it here on YouTube! (Or not)
Hey Justine, nice article!
I learned to enjoy scooters rides in Bali and I am currently in Nusa Penida. I believe one really good advice is not to break air make curves whenever the road is sandy, and also, whenever going through mid or a steep path try to keep a steady acceleration, it .akes a lot easier to go through. Those tips were given to me by an experienced Rider and helped me a looot in Nusa Penida
*break and make curves
*Going through mud
Yes, such great advice!! Especially on Nusa Penida. I had an incident where I crashed my motorbike there because of gravel 🙁 I was fine but I learned my lesson the hard way!
Excellent post! The comments regarding clothing are important. I’ve come off twice whilst travelling through Laos on different occasions, in nothing more than shorts and t shirt and the photographs weren’t pretty.
With no experience of scooters I was careful, but inevitably you get a little overconfident as time rolls by and start to consider yourself an expert by the end of the first day! I learned otherwise as I approached a bend with a high hedge and saw a bus travelling along on what I could see was my side of the road, whereas it would be considered dangerous driving in the west, it’s the norm to take bends wide everywhere else it seems and due to my inexperience I panicked and overreacted to what I thought was about to happen. Instead of merely slowing doing to wait for him to come into view and him move back to his side of the road I went to swerve violently to the right and locked up the front wheel at speed (my habits as a cyclist did me no favours here). The bike fell on top of me and I could feel momentum sliding me toward where the bus now was. To this day I’m curious how an accident was avoided and appreciate the driving skills of locals, which might well seem, even be(!) erratic but they are often better equipped mentally to react to whats happening in front of them and with a better understanding of the local road layout.
That first fall led to severe grazing of my shoulder, knee and side of hand which took the brunt of the impact and hefty bruising to my thigh which left me stiff for weeks to come until it faded out. As I returned that evening in something of a state of shock (I was shivering quite severely) I was to be further humiliated as I waited at lights in the local town, Pakse as a boy who couldn’t have been much older than eight confidently drove up alongside me with a grin on his face on an identical CC scooter.
I returned the following year to do the Loop and found I was now nervous with traffic coming around corners and wrongly used the front brake to slow me down (as an ex-courier on a fixed wheel pushbike, using the front brake to slow down was an automatic thing) as a similar situation appeared to be taking shape, it wasn’t. This time however my rucksack took the impact as it rolled off my shoulder and I was at least wearing a helmet this time so I came away from that one with little more than my pride in tatters! I can’t say I was any better dressed mind! Yes, a pair of leather trousers at the very least would ensure you stay intact but in such heat…?
Oh man, that’s an intense story! It sounds like you’ve gotten pretty bruised and battered but at least you walked away OK! Yeah, wearing more appropriate clothing always feels ridiculous (and ridiculously hot) when riding in SE Asia, but when you do take a fall being hot is a small price to pay. I have to say that even I don’t always abide by these rules these days. Last summer in Bali I was riding on the back of a scooter and my boyfriend sideswiped a parked bike (oops!) and my bare foot took the brunt. Nothing was broken, thankfully. But it got seriously sprained I had to stay off of it for weeks. Had I been wearing shoes it probably would have been fine. Lesson learned…
Hey Justine,
Really nice blog post! I loved your suggestions.
During my trip, I also discovered a site to rent a motorbike weekly for just 6000 Pesos (around 30 dollars). It was comfortable moving around far places with the scooter as I had a vehicle 24h/7days.
But pay attention, in some crowded city and moments, driving is more difficult.
It is a perfect solution to visit new places with peace and with a slow time. It has been a nice experience:)
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed yourself. I definitely prefer driving in rural areas, away from traffic. Driving in cities still scares me!
Thank you for this post, I am a motorbikes enthusiast so renting out some on a trip is essential for me. It is really amazing how we go past our fears when we go on holiday.
Agreed. It completely changed the way I travel. I love the independence it gives!!
When I was a little kid, I always wanted to rent a bike or a scooter, as we didn’t have one back then. But I couldn’t really get to do it sadly 😅 Now I have a really cool motorcycle that I love riding.
I agree, Tony’s story is really intense!